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To accomplish this I calibrated the television for a few different scenarios and ultimately chose a compromise. Because I don’t want to switch settings each time I change to gaming, SD or HD movies. The menu is very easy to use. I pressed display options and found myself confronted by a few sliders controlling: sharpness, contrast, backlight, colors etc. I could also change the local dimming settings (smart LED) and the way the television tries to remove grain. After about 2 hours, I found a good compromise in settings, displaying both SD and HD very well. I had turned the sharpness down a notch to remove unwanted artifacts around objects, most noticeably in SD signals. Contrast was upped a bit but not too much otherwise it removes shadow details.
Colors were set up high and backlight was set to maximum with the eco sensor enabled. The eco sensor is Samsung’s response to Sony’s system. Basically it reads the environment and changes settings accordingly. It can lower brightness based on ambient light, turn the TV off when there’s no signal and a few other less interesting things. The sound settings give basic control, not nearly as extensive as the image setting capabilities. It allowed me to change the sound to the optimal settings for: movies, music and speech.
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And of course it has the surround mock-up setting, which I like. Last but not least the C8700 can normalize volume differences between channels. This can work but I kept it off because I never experience this problem much. Normally you’d be done now but there’s one more setting to worry about: 3D. Samsung has provided a wide array of tools to make the experience, especially the conversion system, as comfortable as possible.
Settings include: generated depth, brightness and the way the system generates the 3D effect. I noticed that bigger depth in the settings can be really nice or really annoying. It all depended on how well the conversion worked in the first place. So with my TV calibrated it was time for some real world tests.
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So I did what each family does… connect a 2TB HDD with 1080p content and hundreds of movies and TV series that I legally own. But before that I watched some regular television. Testing Now bear in mind that I don’t have the equipment to do a scientific test. I just looked at real world material and calibrated the television using a method that every normal person uses.
First some general remarks about the testing process and findings. I watched content in three categories: SD, HD and gaming. I took my time and got a good look at different aspects of the image quality, especially motion, colors, black levels and general sharpness. First my finding that applies to everything I watched. The viewing angles on this TV are disappointing.
A small angle already resulted in a considerable loss of colors. Everything became tinted quite quickly. There’s also some lightning uniformity. It’s a problem that troubles every edge lit LEDs, basically the edges are more bright because the background light comes from the edges only.
I didn’t notice much during my tests, but it’s there. Okay now for some real world testing starting with SD. SD First I connected a digital television receiver box onto the Samsung C8700. The signal was SD (720×480) and 50hz. The quality was okay from a distance. For the 46″ model a distance of at least 7 feet (2,1 meters) is recommended.
From up close the lack of pixels became painfully obvious. I also noticed that the television was unable to remove all graining without losing detail. Motion was handled well by the 200HZ engine, which means that the television makes motion smoother by placing more frames in between. I ed for more SD materials and found an episode of Glee. Episode 21. It stumbled upon the same problem.
The image wasn’t very sharp and looked washed out. The missing pixels become a big pain.
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